Getting to Spiti via Manali

Getting there:

Travel Cost (as on Jan 2013) & distances:
Manali to Rohtang Pass- 52kms- ~Rs.70 by HRTC bus and ~Rs.100 by private mini buses. By taxi, ~Rs.1500.
Manali to Gramphoo- 69kms- ~Rs. 80 by HRTC bus. ~Rs.1600 by taxi.
Manali to Chhatru- 85kms- ~Rs.100 by HRTC bus. ~Rs.2000 by taxi.
Manali to Batal- 120kms- Rs. 120 by HRTC bus. ~Rs. 3000 by taxi.
Manali to Kunzum Pass- 135km- Rs.140 HRTC bus. Rs.4000 by taxi.
Manali to Kaza- 185km- Rs.200 by HRTC bus. Rs.5500 by taxi.
*Taxi rates are as per the Himachal Taxi Operators Union - Manali website.
       
A lengthy road journey is involved for reaching Spiti. There is no rail or air access to Spiti or Kinnaur. However, there are two road links. The two take off points are the towns of Shimla and Kullu or Manali.

Kullu to Kaza Route- total 205km, est time 12 hours.

The Kullu-Manali route is initially along the Manali-Leh highway, the first few kilometers is a drive along the Beas river as you pass through forests of deodar, poplar, and fir with the occasional view of glacial formations. After a couple of hours of ascent, you reach the first stopover, Marhi. Its a tiny settlement offering beverages, refreshments, snacks and basic food. A basic backpackers stay option is available here too. Marhi offers great views of alpine pastures. **For visitors traveling to Spiti without acclimatisation, Marhi can be a considered as an overnight stay option** Oh and just a little higher, there is an agency offering paragliding.

After Marhi, and over an hours drive, comes the Rohtang Pass(alt.3950m). **Trivia: Rohtang is literally translated as "pile of dead bodies", a notoriety its earned in the past** Light Snowfall is common here even in the summer months.

Traffic Jam after Marhi. Paragliding spot somewhere closeby

17 km from Rohtang Pass is Gramphoo from where you head right. This is where you enter Spiti. Taking a left along the Manali-Leh highway would take you to Lahul or Leh. The road deteriorates as you pass Chhatru (15 km from Gramphoo; huts which serve as rest houses and refreshments available here) where you cross the Chandra river and drive along the opposite bank. 

From Chhatru, the road to Batal is another 32km, passing by the Bara Shingri glacier. Batal is an important stop for visitors to Spiti who want to explore the upper regions. It has two Dhabas (road side restaurants) run by friendly locals who also offer bed for very reasonable rates. Chandra Dhaba owned by Chacha Chachi offers beds starting from Rs.50 per night. A bottle of beer costs Rs.120, snacks, and other beverages are affordable too considering there is no food and bed options within a 25 km radius. In addition to food and stay, Batal also can serve as the starting point for a trek to the Chandratal Lake. For those with a private vehicle, Batal has a motor road connecting to the lake. The road ends just 1km before the lake.

Moving on the Kaza route from Batal, after 15 kms comes the Kunzum Pass(alt.4500m). This is an alternate starting point for the Chandratal Lake trek. In fact, the lake is closer from Kunzum Pass than it is from Batal, but Kunzum offers absolutely no food or stay options. You are on your own, and would be lucky to find any signs of vegetation (except for small pastures), drinking water or life for the next 8-10km of your trek. An adventurous and rewarding trek nonetheless. So stock up the supplies if you choose this route for Chandratal.

kunzum devi temple at kunzum pass

All vehicles take a short detour at Kunzum Pass to circle the temple of Kunzum Devi, then continue 14kms towards Losar. There are small patches of vegetation with an occasional scantily clad short tree. Losar is a tiny settlement by all means but this is going to be the largest one you see from the time you left Manali.  It offers homestays; not the kinds, one would picture. These homestays are in restaurants-cum-houses belonging to local families.

Kaza is 57kms from Losar, but the roads are much better, look out your window for the eye-catching jagged rock formations on the mountains to your left and valley to the right. Kaza, the district Headquarters for Spiti is the final destination public buses. After starting from Kullu at 4am, these buses are scheduled to reach Kaza around 4pm; but only if you are lucky enough to not find a massive traffic jam en route to Rohtang Pass and if your bus doesn't break down; both of which are common occurrences.

Losar to Kaza

Kaza is a busy and crowded tiny town. In my opinion, not worth more than a day's stay. From here, you can pick either of the following:

Kaza village looking good because of my superior photography skills

• rent a car or take the 4pm bus heading to Kibber/Tashigang (highest motorable village in Asia)  and visit the Kye Gompha (Kye monastery) on the way. There is no return bus for the same day, the bus returns only next morning. For overnight stays, Kibber has guest houses.
•  go to Pin Valley Wildlife Sanctuary; the greenest part of Spiti with blue sheep, ibex and if you are a four leaf clover or a rabbits foot, a snow leopard sighting. Which by the way is also reportedly been spotted during winter in Tashigang.



Mark Gomes, often mistaken as the mummified monk of Gue.




• go to other places of tourist interest in lower Spiti, such as Tabo Monastery, Dhankar Lake, Gue village which is home to a mummified monk. Or if you are tired of the monotony of brown boulders and cruel extreme weather, travel down to Middle Kinnaur. 

colors of Kaza

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